We get asked all the time: is a single-hung window still a smart pick? Short answer: yes, when it’s used where it makes sense. If you like a classic look and want to keep costs in check, this style delivers. In this guide, we’ll unpack what “single-hung” actually means, the trade-offs versus other types, how to pick materials and sizes, and how to read energy ratings without a PhD. We’ll also talk real-world costs, installation tips, and the little maintenance moves that keep windows sliding smoothly for years. Whether you’re swapping a few units or planning a full remodel, let’s make sure your next single-hung window choice is one you won’t second-guess.
Key Takeaways
- A single-hung window moves only the bottom sash while the top stays fixed, delivering a classic look with fewer parts and tighter air seals.
- Use single-hungs where budget matters and airflow isn’t critical, and confirm bedroom egress with local code since the operable opening is smaller.
- Choose materials by climate and style: vinyl for low cost/maintenance, wood-clad for warmth, fiberglass/composite for stability, plus options like sloped sills, screens, and grilles.
- Target NFRC specs—U-factor ~0.27–0.30, climate-tuned SHGC, good VT, low air leakage, and solid DP—and pick ENERGY STAR single-hung window units with Low‑E, argon, and warm-edge spacers.
- Plan on roughly $300–$1,200 per opening installed, and require a sill pan, plumb/level/square setting, light low-expansion foam, and clear weep paths for leak-free performance.
- Keep it sliding smoothly by cleaning tracks, lubricating balances and locks with silicone, checking caulk/paint yearly, and replacing worn weatherstripping.
What Is A Single-Hung Window?
A single-hung window has two sashes stacked vertically. The bottom sash moves up and down: the top sash stays fixed. That’s the whole distinction. It looks nearly identical to a double-hung from the curb, but only one sash operates.
Inside the frame, balances (coil or spiral) counter the sash weight so you can lift it without a workout. Most modern single-hungs include a tilt-in bottom sash for easier glass cleaning from inside. You’ll typically have a simple cam lock at the meeting rail, plus a removable insect screen on the exterior.
How it feels to live with one: ventilation comes from the lower half of the window. That’s great for a steady, low draft, but you can’t “top-vent” like you can with a double-hung. The upside? Fewer moving parts often means tighter air seals and less maintenance over time. If you want the classic look with straightforward operation, a single-hung window nails it.
Pros, Cons, And Best Uses
Pros
- Budget-friendly: Typically costs less than a comparable double-hung because only one sash operates.
- Energy-savvy by design: One fewer moving sash = fewer places for air to sneak in.
- Simple mechanics: Fewer parts to adjust or replace over the years.
- Classic curb appeal: Fits traditional and transitional homes nicely.
Cons
- Less ventilation control: Only the bottom opens, so you can’t exhaust warm air from the top.
- Cleaning the fixed sash: On upper floors, the exterior of the top sash can be awkward to reach from inside.
- Egress sizing: You can meet egress with a large enough unit, but the operable opening is smaller than a same-size casement.
Best uses
- First-floor rooms and low-rise windows where cleaning the fixed sash exterior is easy.
- Historic or traditional facades where the double-rail look belongs, but the budget likes “single.”
- Spaces that don’t need maximum airflow (think: guest rooms, dining rooms, studies).
- Mixed window strategies: We often pair single-hung windows in most rooms with a few casements where cross-breezes and egress matter, like bedrooms.
Materials, Styles, And Sizing Options
Materials
- Vinyl: Most affordable and low-maintenance. Good energy performance, wide availability. Color choices have improved (hello, black exteriors), though deep exterior colors can run warmer in sun.
- Wood (and wood-clad): Warm, authentic look. Clad exteriors (aluminum or fiberglass) protect wood while keeping the interior stain/paintable. Higher cost, a bit more care.
- Fiberglass/Composite: Stable, strong, and great in hot/cold swings. Usually pricier than vinyl, often comparable to quality clad-wood.
- Aluminum: Slim sightlines and sturdy, but conduct heat, best for warm or commercial settings or when you choose thermally broken frames.
Styles and options
- Grilles/muntins: Between-the-glass for easy cleaning or simulated divided lites for a more authentic profile.
- Sill design: Sloped sills shed water well: some pocket sills improve stiffness but need clear weep paths.
- Screens: Half screens are typical on single-hungs: full screens are sometimes available.
- Finishes: Factory colors, wood species, hardware upgrades, and coastal (impact-rated) packages.
Sizing
- Common widths: roughly 24–48 inches: heights: roughly 36–72 inches. Custom sizes are widely available.
- Rough openings: Manufacturers list exact RO per model, always check the spec sheet.
- Egress note: Many local codes require a net clear opening around 5.7 sq. ft. for bedrooms. A single-hung window can qualify if sized appropriately, verify with your local code official and the product’s egress data.
Energy Efficiency, Performance, And Ratings
Let’s translate the label alphabet soup into plain English so you can compare apples to apples.
The big 3 metrics (NFRC label)
- U-factor: How well the whole window (glass + frame) resists heat loss. Lower is better. In many climates, aim around 0.27–0.30 or lower.
- SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient): How much solar heat passes through. Lower blocks more heat. Go lower in hot, sunny climates: a moderate value can help with winter sun up north.
- VT (Visible Transmittance): How much daylight gets in. Higher = brighter interiors, but extremely high VT can come with higher SHGC, balance for your climate.
Air leakage and structural performance
- Air Leakage (AL): Lower cfm/ft² means fewer drafts. Look for tight numbers and compression seals.
- Design Pressure (DP): Higher DP means better wind and water resistance, important in coastal or storm-prone areas.
Features that actually help
- Low-E coatings (often double or even triple layers) tuned for your climate.
- Argon-filled dual panes (or krypton in some triples) to cut heat transfer.
- Warm-edge spacers and insulated frames to reduce condensation at the edges.
- Good weatherstripping and proper sill design so water goes out, not in.
Look for the ENERGY STAR mark for your region and the NFRC label for verified ratings. A well-made single-hung window can perform on par with other styles when specified correctly and installed right.
Costs, Installation, And Maintenance
What you’ll likely spend
- Basic vinyl single-hung window: about $150–$500 per unit for the product alone.
- Mid/high-end wood-clad or fiberglass: roughly $400–$1,000+ per unit.
- Installation (retrofit replacement): commonly $150–$400 per window for straightforward jobs: more if there’s rot repair, brickwork, or custom trim.
Expect a typical installed range of $300–$1,200 per opening, depending on size, options (impact glass, specialty colors, divided lites), and regional labor rates. New-construction installs (with flanges) in open walls can be more efficient labor-wise but include framing/finishing costs.
Installation notes we swear by
- Measure three ways (width/height at top, middle, bottom). Order to the tightest plus manufacturer clearance.
- Use a sill pan or form one with flashing to direct water out. Gravity never sleeps.
- Set the unit plumb, level, and square: shim at the jambs near hardware points. Then check operation before you fasten off everything.
- Foam lightly with low-expansion window/door foam: over-foaming can bow frames.
- Keep weep holes clear and tape or flash the head to shed water properly. A great window can’t out-perform a bad install.
Maintenance that pays off
- Clean tracks and sills seasonally: grit is the enemy of smooth slides.
- Lubricate balances and locks with a silicone-based spray (skip oils that collect dust).
- Inspect caulk lines and exterior paint or cladding annually: refresh as needed.
- Replace cracked weatherstripping, cheap fix, big comfort boost.
Handled this way, a good single-hung window should give you decades of reliable service with minimal fuss.
Conclusion
If you want timeless looks, dependable performance, and a friendlier price tag, a single-hung window belongs on your shortlist. It won’t deliver the ventilation tricks of a double-hung or a casement’s wide-open egress, but in the right rooms it’s a rock-solid choice. Focus on the basics: pick the right material for your climate and style, check NFRC ratings (U-factor, SHGC, VT), and don’t skimp on installation quality or flashing. Get two or three quotes, compare like-for-like specs, and ask to see a sample in person. Do that, and you’ll land a window that slides smoothly, seals tight, and looks great from the sidewalk, and from your couch.
Single-Hung Window FAQs
What is a single-hung window and how does it work?
A single-hung window has two vertical sashes; the bottom sash slides up and the top sash is fixed. Counterbalance systems make lifting easy, and many models have a tilt-in lower sash for cleaning. Ventilation comes from the lower half. Fewer moving parts mean tighter air seals and typically less maintenance.
How much does a single-hung window cost installed?
Basic vinyl single-hung window units typically cost $150-$500 each. Mid to high-end wood-clad or fiberglass models run about $400-$1,000+. Retrofit installation commonly adds $150-$400 per window. Expect an installed range of roughly $300-$1,200 per opening, more with rot repair, impact glass, custom colors, or complex trim.
What energy ratings should I look for on a single-hung window?
Check the NFRC label: target a U-factor around 0.27-0.30 or lower to reduce heat loss. Choose SHGC based on climate (lower for hot sun, moderate up north). Consider VT for daylight, plus low Air Leakage and adequate Design Pressure. Look for ENERGY STAR certification and Low-E, argon-filled glass.
Can a single-hung window meet bedroom egress code?
Often, yes, if it’s large enough. Many jurisdictions require a net clear opening of about 5.7 sq. ft., with minimum width and height thresholds. Because only the bottom sash opens, you may need a bigger unit than other styles. Always confirm local code and the product’s certified egress data.
How long do single-hung windows last, and what maintenance helps?
With quality materials and proper installation, a single-hung window can last 20-30 years or more. Maximize lifespan by cleaning tracks and sills seasonally, lubricating balances and locks with silicone spray, inspecting exterior caulk and finishes annually, and replacing worn weatherstripping. Keep weep holes clear to manage water.
Can I replace a double-hung with a single-hung window in the same opening?
Usually, yes. Measure width and height in three places and order to the tightest dimension plus manufacturer clearance. Verify bedroom egress, match sightlines, and plan for new interior trim or exterior capping if needed. Install plumb, level, and square; use flashing and low-expansion foam to seal.